Temso – A High Altitude Sacred Lake in Kinnaur

leopard

Temso – A High Altitude Sacred Lake in Kinnaur

Temso (also spelled as Tem Tso) is a sacred glacier fed lake located high (4979 meters) above Lippa and Labrang villages of Kinnaur. Each year, on 20 bhado, a flower festival — called Fluiach/Ukhayang/Minthko — is celebrated by the villagers of Lippa, Labarang, Kanam and Ropa valley at the shores of this Lake. 

The word “tso” is also used in other languages of the Tibetan cultural sphere, such as Ladakhi and Balti. In Ladakhi, it is pronounced “tso” or “tsho”, while in Balti, it is pronounced “tsho”.

This mystical glacier-fed lake has a profound significance in the local culture and traditions.

 




mountain

These deep gorges near Chicham village are the sanctuary for Snow Leopards




map

Wildlife map of Lahaul & Spiti district of Himachal



leopard

Infographic of Snow Leopard Habitat


kibber

Population estimate of Snow Leopards in Kibber WLS of Himachal Pradesh

gif

Event Registration


Fields marked with an *are required

Itinerary


  • 28th July: Lippa village to Shepherd’s hut beside Waling Nala (31.68126 North / 78.39366 East / altitude 3517 meters)
  • 29th July: Shepherd’s hut to Tem Tso Lake Base camp (altitude ~4800 M)
  • 30th July: Base camp of Tem Tso Lake to Giabong via Tem Tso Lake (31.73245 North / 78.40015 East / altitude 4827 meters) and unnamed pass above Tem Tso (31.72288 North / 78.39357 East / altitude 4979 meters)

Getting To Lippa Village

One can catch a HRTC bus from Reckong Peo, which departs at approximately 9:00AM, heading towards Asrang village. Lippa is located along the route to Asrang. 

There is another HRTC bus that departs from Reckong Peo bus stop at 2:30PM and takes about 2 hours to reach Lippa village. 

Although there are many day buses running from Shimla towards Rampur Bushahr and Reckong Peo, to save time, I took an evening bus from Shimla.  

I took a deluxe night bus of HRTC from Shimla to Reckong Peo.  It left Shimla at around 6 p.m and arrived at Reckong Peo by at 6AM the next day.  

A more adventurous way to reach Lippa village would be to hike from Reckong Peo or Rarang or Jangi.

There are two major routes to reach the Temso Lake shore. First route is from Lippa and the other one is from Labrang village.

Labrang-Lippa route

It is a two-day and ~17 km long moderate hike. Starting with relatively gentle gradient till Tapang Kandey, the terrain becomes steeper as you progress towards Raachoksen.

The villagers of Ropa valley (Gaibong, Sunnam) reach Temso through Runang We (4320 meters) pass.  Runang We is a 3 to 4 hour diagonal ascent from Tapang Kandey. 

There are many good campsites at Tapang Kandey and Gyumsra. Labrang villagers have built some rudimentary stone huts at Gyumsra meadows, a workable solution to spend the night in case you have not carried tents with you. 

From Gyumsra, it is about 4-5 hour hike to the lake. 

If you start your hike early in the morning, you can reach the lake before noon and return to Labrang on the same day.
Here is the usual route that the people of Labrang follows to hike the lake: 

Labrang >>Raachoksen >> Tapang Kandey >> Gudgudang >> Gyumsra  >> Temso Lake.

 

Lippa-Temso route

The traditional route followed by the villagers of Lippa for Ukhayang/Minthko festival goes through Chakra Dogri (Apple orchard fields)- Changmang- Shurmanang.  This route is relatively less texting than the one I followed. 

Spiti river meandering through Hangrang valley Kinnaur

The trail I followed leads from Lippa village, and it follows along the Waling Nala.  There are a few good campsites/shepherd encampments a short distance (about an hour or so) from where the fields of Lippa villagers end.  

This Nala feeds into the Ranam Khad at Chango village.  There is no proper track till the confluence of this Nala with Ranam Khad.  Near the confluence there are shepherd’s huts.  

One has to detour high above the Nala (31.75612 N / 78.39525 E) and then descend along a track to the Ranam Khad.  Right above the Ranam Khad the track has been eroded through landslide and the descent can be very tricky.  

We crossed the Ranam Khad over a snow bridge.  One can see the fields & some huts of the Giabong Villagers towards the Kumche Nala on the true left bank of the Ranam Khad. 

There is a well trodden track used by the locals on the true left bank of the Ranam Khad to Giabong.  

However, that track is very narrow and dangerous looking as it cuts across a steep gorge face.  Giabong is a beautiful village with a PWD guest house to stay in.

Wrapping Up